Over the past few years, I seem to run into the same conversation with friends as well as on various online forums. Usually someone wants to get started with Airbrushing their models and has no real idea where to start. Having invested a lot of time and money into answering that same question for myself, I try to avoid the default “google it” or “check on YouTube.” No offense to those options, but much like the options available related to the subject, there are as many answers available and many seem (to me) to not quite fit. As a result, I thought it might be worthwhile to write about my experiences and what I tell people when asked that question.
First,
some background on me. I started
painting models in the early 90’s with an old Hero Quest box set and some
Testors Enamel paints. Moved on to
Battletech plastics, and later to 40k in the 2000’s. I am by no stretch of the imagination what
could be considered a ‘pro’ at this. I
have at least a dozen miniatures painting projects on my workbench at any given
point, in a mostly uncompleted condition.
I think in 20 years of painting miniature figures, I have completed
maybe a dozen ‘single model’ projects, and perhaps a single ‘full’ army for a
game. What I would consider myself well
versed in is learning time saving and efficiency methods so I can continue to
add more projects to my workbench and feel as though I am making progress on
them.
My start
in Airbrushing was 2004 (?) with a cheap ‘airbrush kit’ from Harbor Freight
Tools. I think it was a single action siphon
feed airbrush, with a compressor that was supposed to be used to fill
basketballs (or maybe bike tires).
Results were middling at best.
Several years later I came across an individual selling a large
collection of airbrushes (from brands I recognized) along with a compressor and
paints. He had purchased them to do
body-painting and gave the endeavor up, taking the hit in cost because he just
wanted rid of them. At that point I got
seriously involved in it. Four airbrushes
of a variety of makes/models (most of which were broken), an iwata compressor (for miniatures, but without an air tank), and a mix of paints (which were totally unsuited for miniatures).
Since
then, I have learned a lot about what works for me, how to clean/repair/maintain
brushes, and I have had the opportunity to learn from some very experienced
people to develop my own set up. My
actual painting ability is still rudimentary (I have had way more time invested
in the cleaning/repair process than I have actually painting with it), I think
I have enough experience to at least help someone along to getting started with
their own kit.
Before digging in, it may be worth your time to familiarize yourself some basic airbrush concepts. Iwata (a notable brand) has a good guide, located here: https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/airbrush-basics.html
The scope
of this article is to relate my recommendations for those new to the hobby,
based on my own trial and error, in order to make an informed decision before
jumping in. I will break it down into a
few broad categories, with explanations along the way. As with anything like this, there is no ‘right’
answer (though you can frequently find several ‘wrong’ answers). I am sure others can and will produce the
same results as me (if not better) with different equipment. This is just an explanation of what I recommend
to people and why, with a lot of the little options I have found along the way. All of this assumes you will be using the
brush to paint hobby models in a scale from 15mm to 28mm (the scales I
play).
Part 1 - Minimum Requirements
The three
things you need to airbrush, at the very minimum, is a brush, a compressor (or source
of pressurized air), and paint. Everything
else falls into ‘consumables’ to ‘nice to have’ or ‘quality of life’
improvements. With those three items,
you will be able to put paint onto models, which is the point.
Airbrush:
I have
used hobby airbrushes from a variety of manufacturers with a variety of
designs. Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Aztek,
Masters, even that cheap Harbor Freight model I started with (basically the
equivalent to the no-name $20 version you can get just about anywhere). Single action, dual action, siphon feed,
gravity feed, quick change nozzles, bare bones or all the bells and whistles. The style I continue to use and recommend is
a gravity feed, double action brush. I
recommend Iwata (my preferred brand), though Badger is popular. Like with a traditional brush, your choice in
airbrush should reflect what you plan to do with it. I currently maintain two Iwata brushes,
listed below.
Iwata
Revolution HP-CR (Retail $125, Amazon $100) -
https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/revolution-4500-cr.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW
Iwata
Revolution HP-BR (Retail $122, Amazon $95) -
https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/revolution-br.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MH6Q5E
The CR is
a gravity feed, dual action, with a larger paint reservoir (with an optional
lid, I’ve never used mine). It has a
.5mm nozzle size, though it can be converted to .3mm. This is my work horse brush, used to prime
and base coat almost all my models. It
is a simple design, with a minimum of parts that can be adjusted or damaged compared
to some others. It is capable of some
detail work, depending on the scale, and I have used it to good effect in
applying camouflage on 15mm WW2 models.
If I had to choose a single brush to keep and use, this would be it. Easy to clean, easy to maintain, good coverage,
large reservoir, great coverage for the scale of models I paint.
Due to the
limitations of the .5mm nozzle on the CR, I purchased the BR for more fine camo
work at 15mm. Specifically, the ‘squiggle’
camo patterns for German armored vehicles.
If you need to paint a very small area with limited overspray and more
fine control, the BR is a good choice.
It is virtually identical to the CR with a smaller reservoir and a .3mm
nozzle. When faced with the decision
between buying a whole new brush for detail work or buying the conversion kit
for the CR (and the time/effort in swapping the nozzle and needle) it made more
sense to just get the second brush.
Badger
would be my backup recommendation. I
have used several over the years, but I have the most experience with the
Patriot 105 and SOTAR 20/20.
Badger
Patriot 105 (Amazon $126) -
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Patriot_105.asp
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-Patriot-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO
Badger SOTAR
20/20 (Amazon $135) -
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Sotar_20-20.asp
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-2020-2F-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO
I found
the badger brushes to be easy to use, but not as easy as Iwata. There are more options with regards to nozzle
swaps, fine adjustments for spray (especially on the SOTAR), and the nozzle tip
is easy to bump/damage due to it extruding from the brush without a cover (like
the Iwata has). I actually bent the
nozzle/needle on my Patriot early on from regular handling. This was completely user error, I was not
paying attention to where I was holding it and it brushed up against a hard
surface, but worth mentioning. An
advantage Patriot has is that parts are inexpensive. A disadvantage is that I needed a lot of
them. I also bought the extra
nozzle/needle sets for the SOTAR, giving it a much wider range of uses. I include them here for options, some people
feel strongly about a particular brand.
NOTE –
Badger will frequently run sales direct from their store, which cut the price
down for the available brushes significantly.
I purchased my badger brushes with a sale like this, and if you want to
get any of their brushes, I would HIGHLY recommend you wait for one of these
sales. They are good brushes, I just
feel the Iwata brushes do the job I need them to do better and for less cost.
Compressor:
The second
item you will need is a way to get compressed air into the brush. An air compressor is the most common method
that I have seen. It is worth noting I
have seen people use individual cans of compressed air, some of which were
refillable from a regular (non-hobby) air compressor. I have also seen battery powered hand-held
compressors. Personally, I think those
are niche uses. For most of us, you will
want a hobby compressor.
Buy a
compressor with an air tank. My first
compressor was just that, with no storage tank for the air. It ran constantly, had difficulty maintaining
pressure, and overheated (the heated air had a serious impact on the paint
job). Other than that, buying a ‘name
brand’ is optional. I have had very good
results from this model:
Quiet 1/5
hp Airbrush Tank Compressor -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU
That model
is currently unavailable, though I have had friends recommend this similar
item:
Master
Airbrush 1/5 HP Cool Runner -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQM6R83
The
important thing to look for is an air storage tank and a moisture trap (that clear
plastic thing attached to it, traps the moisture coming out of the tank – very important
for humid regions). I have found that
one models works about as well as any others.
My compressor is going on 4 years of regular use, and the only issue is
that one of the rivets on the carry handle came loose and needs to be
reattached. Performance-wise, it is
great. Not too loud, no issues with
heated air or moisture, and keeps steady pressure (I paint at 20-22 psi).
There are
name-brand options which I am sure will do the job, but at a significantly higher
cost. Avoid micro-compressors like those
designed for airbrushing nails or ‘salon’ compressors. They usually operate at a lower psi and tend
to lack an air tank (so they overheat).
You can use a ‘generic’ garage compressor, like you would use to fill
tires or basketballs and such, but I would highly recommend against it. I started with one myself but could not get
the pressure consistent (they tend to operate at a much higher psi than hobby
airbrushes), lack moisture traps, and a fluctuation of pressure at the wrong
time could result in a bad paint job or a damage airbrush.
NOTE – You
will need an air hose and possibly an adaptor to hook your airbrush up to the compressor. Look for a compressor that has a braided hose
(much more durable) and fits your airbrush.
My badger brushes require an adaptor as all my hoses are for Iwata’s. I consider this an included expense with the
compressor as many come with it but check to be sure.
Paint:
Use
whatever you like, just thin it down.
Seriously,
it is that easy. My go-to is Vallejo,
though I use Army Painter, Citadel, AK Interactive, P3, and a variety of
others. I have heard of success stories
with Apple Barrel craft paints (my first airbrush paint job used that, actually). While I would recommend you go with a known
hobby paint brand, any acrylic paint should work. The cheaper ‘craft paint’ just tends to have
issues with pigment (the pigment particles are larger in some cases, which
after thinning can produce a grainy finish, but not always). You do not need to go out and buy new
paint.
Several
companies are producing ‘airbrush ready’ paints now, which match up with their
standard paint. That works, though it
usually still needs to be thinned down.
The necessary items to properly thin paints will be in the consumables
section.
With
regards to how much you should thin your paint, I have always been told to make
it the consistency of milk. No, I still
do not know exactly what that means. I
gauge it based on results. If it sprays
properly and gets good coverage without being runny, its good to go. If it sputters, I thin it more. If it comes off runny and transparent, I add
more paint. In this case, I will refer
you to YouTube and leave it to that.
There is a lot of trial and error involved until you get a feel for
it. If there is interest, I will work on
getting a list of videos I have found helpful together and post that playlist
for others.
NOTE – I
will recommend Badger Stynylrez primer over any others. Vallejo primers can go on a little
thick/rubbery and have had curing issues.
AK primers are a mixed lot. I
have had nothing but consistent good results from Stynylrez primers (check
amazon). Actual paints can be standard
thinned down or made for airbrush. For
gloss or matte finish, you will want to get one designed for airbrushing, my
attempts at thinning down brush on clear coats have not produced good
results.
There you have
it, the three items you need to get into airbrushing. All told, you can expect to spend $200-275 on
your brush and compressor. Less if you
can find sales. If you are trying to
save money, cut corners on the compressor (as long as it has an airtank and
moisture trap, you are good), not the brush.
If you are only trying to airbrush primer and maybe the base coat, you
can go cheap on the brush, just recognize that to get finer detail later on
(which you eventually want to expand your experience with it, like we all do) odds
are good you will be buying a new brush.
Spend a little extra up front and get a good product with a variety of
uses. Now, lets move on to the other items.
Part 2 - Consumables
To save
time/space, I am going to attempt to be brief.
These are all items you either have to have (marked with a *) or are
really helpful to have around, and you will be buying them several times.
* Airbrush
Cleaner – Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner – I buy the large bottle (32oz) and
refill the small squirt bottle (4-16oz)
* Airbrush
Thinner – Vallejo – Get the big bottle, you’ll use it
Airbrush
Flow Improver – Vallejo – A small bottle will work, it’s a compliment to the
thinner
Gloves –
Dealmed Medical Exam Gloves/Nitrile (Black) – I prefer the black gloves, but
anything will do. Wear them on the hand
holding the model so you don’t get paint all over yourself.
Q-Tips –
For cleaning
Alcohol –
For cleaning
Distilled Water
– For cleaning
Toothpicks
– For mixing paint
Dropper
bottle for Alcohol/Water
Acetone/Mineral
Spirits – The ‘nuclear option’ for cleaning, use sparingly
Shop
Towels – I prefer the thicker blue shop towels, but any paper towels will
work. Both for cleaning up as well as
test spray
Quality
of Life Improvements
Here are a variety of items I have added to my airbrush set-up with a brief explanation of how I use them:
Airbrush Booth/Vent
- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLQ019A - This is a dual-purpose spray
area with a vent (and lights if you get the version that has them). Important for indoor airbrushing or areas
with limited ventilation.
Canvas
Drop Cloth – Harbor Freight – Something to protect my table, as well as one to
put under my whole painting station for spills.
Just saves me scrubbing things later to remove spilled paint.
“Dump
Bucket” – Any hardware store – Standard 5-gallon bucket or small mopping
bucket. Easier to dump waste paint/cleaner/water
into this while working than getting up and going to the sink. I’ll put a little water in initially so
nothing dries in it, then as I change paints, clean the reservoir, etc, I just
dump into the bucket. Dispose
appropriately at the end of the painting session.
Airbrush
Cleaning Kit – These usually have both a ‘spray pot’ (where you stick the
nozzle of the airbrush into it and spray to clean it out without spraying paint
everywhere) and a brush set (pipe cleaners).
Some have pick sets as well. Just
good to have for those hard to reach clogs.
Brush
Holder – Something that will clamp on to your table where you can rest your
airbrush in an upright position (in case there is paint inside it). Spray pot will work just as well.
Apron –
Keeps spills off your clothes.
Tool Box –
If you are planning on transporting your kit, find a big enough tool box to
hold everything. I have a rolling tool
box that has my compressor, brushes, tools, paints, everything.
Golf-Tees/Blue-tack
– How I hold my models while painting.
Ultrasonic
Jewelry Cleaner – Useful when you need to do a deep-clean after a few painting
sessions. I’ll do a general cleaning
after I am done for the day, but after a few sessions things will build
up. Strip the brush down to its
component parts, soak it, get into it with the picks and q-tips, then let it
spend some time in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Reassemble, lubricate, and should be good to go.
Soaking
Glass – I have a small somaek (Korean mixed drink, Soju and beer) glass that
fits my airbrush perfectly. I’ll fill it
up so that the cleaner covers the reservoir (but not the trigger) to soak if I
am taking an extended break. “Professional”
opinions are mixed on this. Some say
never to soak your airbrush, others highly recommend it. I’ve found it helps with cleaning and keeps
paint from drying if you take a break.
Long
bristle synthetic brush – I use this both for mixing paint in the reservoir as
well as cleaning out anything deep in there when I’m changing paints. Synthetic brushes hold up better and are
stiffer. LONG bristle, you want to be
able to get into the recesses. Preferably
with a plastic handle so it doesn’t crack when you leave it in the soaking
glass.
Various
Tools – Tweezers, nozzle removal tools, picks, etc. There is not a painting session that goes by
where I don’t wish I had something on hand, then forget to add it to the
collection when I’m done. You’ll find a
variety of odds and ends that would have come in handy, just remember to have
them available (and accessible with one hand).
Quick
Change Valves – I was using 4 airbrushes at one point, so I tried the
quick-change values to switch between them without loosing all my air
pressure. They never worked quite
right.
For most
of these items, a quick search on amazon or a trip to the local craft store
should get you what you need. I’ve
included photos of my setup for reference as well. If anyone has questions or I missed anything,
please let me know. This is likely to be
a work-in-progress as I find new items or new ways of doing things. I just hope my mistakes can help save others
the same cost and trouble.
Here are some photos of my set-up:
