I am occasionally asked what my process is for getting my models put together and ready to use. Here, I am going to explain what works for me and give an overview of the process.
Before I get going, I want to do a review of the tools I use. It is not necessary to have all of this, you can do almost everything necessary with a sharp hobby knife and some files. I am always on the look out for a more efficient way to do things, which leads me to try a variety of products. I've also found specific tools help with the odd unexpected situation, so I leave them in my case should I need them again.
Both of my cases were purchased on amazon, some sort of electronics storage case or other small tool case. I travel a lot, so having them all in a portable and compact carry case made sense. I can put them in a small box with whatever my current project is and have everything I need to work on them when I have the time.
Main Case:
Now, on to the models.
To start with, you'll get your models in whatever pack they come in. For this, I decided to go with Heavy Gear, as I have several in various stages of completion to use an example. Just remove them from the package, try to brush off or trim any mold lines or other unnecessary bits, and get to work.
Start by removing mold lines with a hobby knife and files. Try to trim up and identify any flaws with the model. Get an idea of how you will be attaching it to your base, and how the parts fit together. Pinning, if you plan to do it (based on how secure the pieces are in attaching together) can be started here. For these models, I usually pin the arms to the torso, and another pin in the foot to attach it to the base.
When that is all done with and you have a model that is ready to be put together, you'll need to clean it up first. This step is necessary for most (if not all) metal and resin models (NOTE - I've been told plastics need it as well, I have yet to wash my plastic models and have never had an issue - opinions vary). It removes the various chemicals that are used in the molding process, which can cause paint to not adhere to the model. It will also remove your finger oils, dust, and debris (like the metal flakes from filing) from your models, making it much easier to assemble and paint.
I have used a variety of products over the years. From oven cleaner, to brake fluid, simple green, and dish soap. I prefer Super Clean (also known as "Purple Power"). Its a multi-purpose cleaner, smells nice, wont damage plastics, and not harmful if you get it on your skin. (NOTE - This stuff is also great at stripping paint and glue from models!)
Just throw the models in a little plastic container of the right size to submerge them, add your cleaner, and let set. You can leave it for as long as you like, it really doesnt need much time at all (soaking not required, I just do it because I'm working on other things). Pull them out and take an old toothbrush to them. Get in all the little areas, rinse them off throughly with plain water, and put them somewhere to dry. A side note - If you have hard water, try to get them as dry as possible before setting them to air dry, you'll avoid any deposits of minerals from the water on your model that way.
Following this, you will attach the model to whatever base you have decided to use. I can do a write up on how I base my figures in another article, but that should all be done ahead of time. As I said, I put a pin in the leg to secure to the base (I've found metal models can detach from the base if you just use glue, especially for dynamic poses).
You'll also want to put your pins into whatever parts get them. For this Jager, you can see each arm has a pin which was small enough to be put inside the nub that goes into the torso already. I figured doubling up on securing it was worthwhile, and did not take me much more time. Pinning might seem like a long and unnecessary process to some, but having had several of my models not survive casual gaming or transport because the glue failed, I have a habit of putting a pin connection in just about anything. For this model, the shoulder rocket pod and backpack could both benefit from it. Probably not the head though, it is not nearly big enough to get a good hole in there to secure it down. Below you can see the rest of the squad, with the extra holes in the arm slots for the pins which I added to the arms.
Questions? Comments? Let me know what you think and whatever else you would like to read about here.
Before I get going, I want to do a review of the tools I use. It is not necessary to have all of this, you can do almost everything necessary with a sharp hobby knife and some files. I am always on the look out for a more efficient way to do things, which leads me to try a variety of products. I've also found specific tools help with the odd unexpected situation, so I leave them in my case should I need them again.
Both of my cases were purchased on amazon, some sort of electronics storage case or other small tool case. I travel a lot, so having them all in a portable and compact carry case made sense. I can put them in a small box with whatever my current project is and have everything I need to work on them when I have the time.
- Wire Cutters
- Flathead pliers ( square tip - no teeth)
- Pointed tip sprue cutters
- Steel needle files
- Emery Board (for sanding fingernails)
- Citadel Moldline Remover
- Tamiya paint stirrer
- Variety of Hobby Tweezers
- Padded grip hobby knife (with cover)
- Tamiya precision pin vice and bits
- Scrap plastic (to check pin vice bit sizes)
- Variety of pin vices
Second Case:
- Dremel drill bits
- Pinning rods (with the same size bits)
- Small cutting board
- Extra hobby knife blades
- Old wire cutters/sprue trimmers
- Second Hobby Knife
- Hobby saw
- Second Tamiya paint stirrer
Most of this case is 'left over' stuff, or extras. I take my cutters and put them in this case when they start wearing out and I buy new ones. Sometimes, you have to use them to cut through some thick models or other things that would damage/dull a new set. Better to break a set you are no longer using or one that is already dull than replacing new. I also have a plastic tub that is full of many more left over or old tools I no longer use that I'll occasionally dig into. Never discard things unnecessarily, it might save you some time to use it again down the line. Also, buy in bulk (hobby knife blades and files especially).
To start with, you'll get your models in whatever pack they come in. For this, I decided to go with Heavy Gear, as I have several in various stages of completion to use an example. Just remove them from the package, try to brush off or trim any mold lines or other unnecessary bits, and get to work.
Start by removing mold lines with a hobby knife and files. Try to trim up and identify any flaws with the model. Get an idea of how you will be attaching it to your base, and how the parts fit together. Pinning, if you plan to do it (based on how secure the pieces are in attaching together) can be started here. For these models, I usually pin the arms to the torso, and another pin in the foot to attach it to the base.
I have used a variety of products over the years. From oven cleaner, to brake fluid, simple green, and dish soap. I prefer Super Clean (also known as "Purple Power"). Its a multi-purpose cleaner, smells nice, wont damage plastics, and not harmful if you get it on your skin. (NOTE - This stuff is also great at stripping paint and glue from models!)
Just throw the models in a little plastic container of the right size to submerge them, add your cleaner, and let set. You can leave it for as long as you like, it really doesnt need much time at all (soaking not required, I just do it because I'm working on other things). Pull them out and take an old toothbrush to them. Get in all the little areas, rinse them off throughly with plain water, and put them somewhere to dry. A side note - If you have hard water, try to get them as dry as possible before setting them to air dry, you'll avoid any deposits of minerals from the water on your model that way.
You'll also want to put your pins into whatever parts get them. For this Jager, you can see each arm has a pin which was small enough to be put inside the nub that goes into the torso already. I figured doubling up on securing it was worthwhile, and did not take me much more time. Pinning might seem like a long and unnecessary process to some, but having had several of my models not survive casual gaming or transport because the glue failed, I have a habit of putting a pin connection in just about anything. For this model, the shoulder rocket pod and backpack could both benefit from it. Probably not the head though, it is not nearly big enough to get a good hole in there to secure it down. Below you can see the rest of the squad, with the extra holes in the arm slots for the pins which I added to the arms.
At this point, you can finish the model assembly and give it a layer of primer. For these models, being metal, I used a small bottle of brush-on nail glue (the stuff for fake fingernails). This is just a higher quality Ethyl Cyanoacrylate than the generic hobby glues you can get at any shop. I feel like it bonds a little better, and I like the brush included in there (it helps me not make as much of a mess). In the end, you should have something that looks like this:
There it is, from start to finish, this is how I prep and build my models. There are a few specifics that I do not cover at all (basing, how to pin, airbrushing the primer) but those are easy to find on youtube. This process will work for just about any model you need to put together, and can easily be stopped or started if you need to take a break. Quite a few of the models below were started years ago, and waited in a box for me to get around to finishing them up. No breaks, no failed joins, and having a standardized process let me know exactly where I left off.
